Archive for June, 2009

Destination: Grand Canyon – a Lifetime Backpacking Adventure Story

Friday, June 26th, 2009

IMG_0306 by firehole.The Grand Canyon.  It was December of 2006 and our group was looking for a destination for our annual 10 day backpacking trip, how about the Grand Canyon?

We were going to be a group of 5 this year ranging in age from our early 40s to our early 50s.  We had significant backpacking experience, but it was all in the mountains of the American West.  Several trips to Glacier, a trip to the Tetons, a trek several years ago in Sequoia culminating in the summit of Mt Whitney, and many adventures in Yellowstone, including a 7-day backcountry extravaganza through the remote Thorofare Region.

We had never been anywhere remotely similar to the Grand Canyon.  Everything is different; you never have to worry about water in the mountains, usually there’s too much, with thunderstorms and the occasional snow and hail.

You don’t have to secure your food supply against bears in the Canyon, but mice, ravens, and other rodents are a nuisance. Extensive rain gear is probably not necessary, but sun protection is a must.  In the mountains you have many ups and downs everyday, sometimes climbing and descending several passes in one day, in the Canyon, you pretty much have one down and one up, but they’re doozies!

But if we do anything well, we plan.

Our “planning meetings” are an excuse to get the group together, eat pizza, pore over maps, and drink beer.

We started planning in early March, researching online via private sites and the NPS.  We figured that October would be a good month, which was difficult for us as our normal timeframe is June or July and we would certainly be antsy to get out of town come the end of summer.  We studied the permit process and prepared the application.  We are familiar with difficult to obtain permits and planned a strategy to get the permits to the backcountry office on the first possible minute the permits were available.

We wanted to combine several days of backpacking with a night or two at Phantom Ranch.  We had done similar style trips in Glacier, breaking up several days of backcountry with nights in the Granite Park and Sperry Chalet.

Our first choice was down the canyon to Phantom Ranch and then several nights down the Clear Creek trail.  Our second choice was departing from the Grandview Trailhead, several nights along the Tonto Trail to Phantom Ranch and then up and out.  The Phantom Ranch reservations were already made and booked, so the trip itinerary revolved around those dates.

Now we wait.

Notification from the GC Backcountry Office seemed to take forever.  When we finally heard back we received our second choice, Grandview, Horseshoe Mesa, Grapevine Canyon, Boulder Canyon, Cremation Canyon, with Phantom Ranch for two nights at the end.  We were disappointed that we didn’t get our first choice, but excited about the current itinerary.

Now the hardcore planning begins; flights from Chicago to Las Vegas, car rentals, lodges before and after the trip, and equipment purchases to add new and replace old.  My brother is kind of a map freak and he always orders custom topos (www.mytopo.com) of our trip.  For this adventure not only did he document the route and the distances between the camping zones, but he researched and documented perennial water sources along the way.

Fast forward to October.

Flight to Vegas, rent the car, drive over the Hoover Dam, and head to the South Rim.  We had a room at the Red Feather Lodge in Tusayan.

Hotel sign by firehole.

Our first Canyon hiking experience was a day hike from the Hermit’s Rest trailhead, down the Hermit Trail, to Dripping Springs.

What goes down must come up by firehole.

This was a great hike, it acclimated us to the canyon, had plenty of ups and downs, and great views.

Inner Canyon by firehole.

The night at the lodge was spent packing and repacking, deciding what was necessary, what was a luxury, and exactly how heavy our packs would be.  We had read all about the rodent and raven problem in the canyon and had decided to pack all of our food in 1-gallon screw top plastic jugs that formally held pretzels from Costco!

We always dehydrate and cook all of our food from scratch (self-dehydrated meal recipes available on request!), so everyone ended up with either one or two gallon jugs full of food for the 5 days in the backcountry.

We had two vehicles, so the next morning we left one at Bright Angel Lodge and piled ourselves and our gear into the other for the short drive to Grandview.

Trip report from the backcountry next week!

Len Hardy
Bartlett, IL
USA
http://www.firehole.us

We’re real excited about Len graciously agreeing to write about his Grand Canyon experiences and share his photos as our guest blogger! Check back next Friday for the second installment of Len’s trip.

Three Generations Hike the Grand Canyon Rim to Rim

Monday, June 22nd, 2009

pic_0246I was skeptical when I got the call from Blanche. She was just like many of our clients, between the ages of 40 and 60 wanted to hike across the canyon before she was too old, but she told me that her father, Paul, wanted to hike with her and that he was in better shape. The odd part about this is that Paul is 82 years old!

Maybe I shouldn’t be telling this story for fear of my liability insurance carrier raising my rates but I went ahead with having him as a guest. I went through the usual screening and found out that he walks as much as five miles a day and that he’s been active all his life. I also keep in the back of my head that Maverick Gaudreau crossed the canyon 106 times when he was 80; granted he was a seasoned veteran of the canyon and not crossing for the first time.  The main thing is that his doctor cleared him for the trek so we were ready to go.

Somewhere in this process I get a call that Blanche’s son, Chris, wants to go as well.  With Chris on board, it officially made this trip the first time I had ever led three generations of the same family on one hike.  It is certainly an honor to be a part of this event but it had me worried anyway. There are men much younger than 82 that have had their first heart attack while hiking out of the canyon. It would have haunted me all my days to think that I set up an event where two family members could watch it’s patriarch go it cardiac arrest and get a helicopter ride out of the canyon.  My nerves were calmed when I first met Paul.  He nearly crushed my hand with is vise-like grip when we met on the first day of our trek.

Our trip was outstanding. We were spared the hot temperatures that usually accompany a Grand Canyon tour in June. It was actually chilly our last morning at Indian Garden which is where the picture was taken. Paul (on the left) wasn’t trying to look gangsta, he was just cold. Everyone was ready for the trip and it showed. Paul may have thought he was slow but we kept a good pace the entire time. The family, as well as the brother -sister team that made up the last two spots on the tour, kept me in stitches the entire time.  Losing your sense of humor is one of the signs that a guest is struggling so it was nice to see everyone was still laughing even on the way out of the canyon.

Maybe I’m commenting too much about Paul but it is just because I’m amazed at how well he handled this task even though I know he had his doubts. (everyone does the first time they realize they have to hike out of the big ditch). I just hope that I am in the same shape when I’m 82. It would be nice to share a cross canyon trip with my son and a grandchild or two when I’m that age.

Native American Cliff Dwellings in Rogers Canyon

Wednesday, June 17th, 2009

As I mentioned in my previous blog post, hiking Roger’s Canyon is a great day trip. Getting there is a bit of an adventure, with the barely-there road network to get to the jumping off point.

There’s a bounty of beautiful wilderness sights to rest your eyes on when you go on this hiking trip. The hike down the canyon is a bit over three miles of following a stream bed, with well marked trails, until you get to the bottom of the canyon. Then, you’re at the high point of the hike – well, the low point, really, topographically speaking. You’re within a reasonable walk of the Rogers Canyon cliff dwellings, though some climbing will be necessary.

Cliff Dwellings at Rogers Canyon / Flickr photo by lance_mountain
These cliff dwellings have been uninhabited for somewhere between 600 and 700 years; they’re still trying to pin things down a bit more exactly. The Salado tribe had an agricultural trading culture that filled in the gaps (and some think might be a remnant) of the larger Anasazi tribe that started to die off about 800 years ago, mostly due to overgrazing, over-irrigation and soil depletion, issues that are concerns to all residents of the Valley of the Sun even now.

It’s somewhat sobering to be clambering through the ruins of a culture that made some of the same decisions our government is making in the present day with regards to sustainability.

To get into the dwellings, as mentioned, takes a bit of climbing. There are three that are open to the public; the lowest one just requires walking up the path on the cliff. The one on the upper right is somewhat harder and requires an actual ascent, and the top chamber is very difficult to get at, because it requires basic rock climbing skills to get into. This particular compound was probably a home to an extended family, and there are still traces of them around.

Across the creek, there’s a short ascent to the courtyard, which is in front of the lowest chamber – it’s almost completely dark, because the walls are still intact. Getting past the second chamber and out again requires some awkward maneuvering if you’re not careful. And you should conserve your energy here, because you’ve got a four mile, mostly uphill, hike back to the car.

Because this is a historical site, be very careful about what you do here; we don’t want hikers to wreck it for future visitors.

A Father’s Day Gift That Doesn’t Suck

Sunday, June 14th, 2009

backingpacker Most Father’s Day gifts pretty much suck. After all, Dad usually gets things like ties, wallets, socks, and not-fun stuff like that.

We’ve probably all been to the garage sale where some poor old guy is sitting next to a table with 6 different brand new electric shavers for sale. You get the picture.

So why not give Dad an adventure this year? Present him with a few days to himself, or maybe even better, with his son, off in the wilderness exploring the Grand Canyon or Yosemite. He’ll be drinking in fresh air and fantastic scenery, and making memories he’ll never forget.

No, he probably won’t come home and scrapbook about it, but those memories will be tucked into a special place in his mind for the rest of his life. You will be too, if you’re the smart cookie that gave him such a terrific Father’s Day gift.

Just Roughin It has some all-guy getaways that would be perfect for him. If your old man isn’t in the greatest shape, okay a couch potato, we’ll steer him away from any canyoneering adventures. We’ve got backpacking trips to fit just about any level of experience and fitness.

We promise to make sure he eats good, sleeps well, and has a blast!

 

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