Archive for July, 2009

Havasu Falls is Not The Bottom Of the Grand Canyon

Thursday, July 30th, 2009

havasu-fallsI’m not sure how I came across this but there was an article on Go-Nomad.com that reminded me of  something that people need to realize. When you hike to Havasu Falls on the Havasupai Reservation, you aren’t hiking to the bottom of the Grand Canyon.

I’ve had to explain this fact to many clients who were coming to Arizona to hike to the canyon bottom and wanted to get the “full Grand Canyon experience.”  Most of these folks eventually decided to go the National Park instead once this was explained.

Just like with those clients,  I want to take a few minutes to let everyone know the scoop about Havasupai because if  your goal is to hike to the bottom of the Grand Canyon and back out you should consider hiking in the National Park instead.

Don’t get me wrong, I love going to Havasu Falls. It’s a beautiful location, with waterfalls that you wouldn’t expect in the middle of the desert and a turquoise blue water that’s unbelievable. We ( Just Roughin’ It Adventure Company) lead guided tours into both the Grand Canyon National Park and Havasupai so we have nothing to gain from swaying you in one direction or the other. All I’m attempting to do in this post is to educate you so that when you travel across the country or around the world to visit the Grand Canyon,  you get the experience you desire.

Havasu Falls is located in the Grand Canyon in a large tributary canyon on the south side of the Colorado River. It’s on land that is west of the Grand Canyon National Park and takes about 3 and 1/2 hours to drive from Grand Canyon Village in the park to Hualapai Hilltop which is the trailhead for the Havasu Falls hike. From the trail head, its an 8 mile hike to the village of Supai, the tribal home of the Havasupai Tribe, and another 2 miles from the village to the campground situated between Havasu Falls and Mooney Falls. The falls are incredible and you can swim in the pools below each of the falls.

Although you are deep in the canyon at this point, you are still 700 vertical feet from the bottom of the canyon at the Colorado River. In order to reach the bottom at point where the Havasu Creek meets the Colorado, you have a 14 mile round trip hike from Mooney Falls which involves some mild climbing, route finding skills and at least 10 creek crossings in knee deep to waist deep water. In other words, this route can be difficult and most people never get far beyond Mooney Falls. I’ve hiked to the bottom of the canyon from Havasu Falls many times but I also know that I’m in the minority when it comes to that experience.

Another misconception about the Havasupai hike is that you will get the amazing expansive views that you see in photos and on the Travel Channel. Those views are found in the National Park and not at Havasupai. You definitely know that you are descending into the canyon but you are not able to see clear across to the North Rim of the canyon like you can when you hike the Bright Angel Trail, South Kaibab Trail or most of the other major trails on the South Rim in the National Park.

Please forgive me for this simplified explanation but hopefully this helps you get a better idea of what both locations have to offer as a hiking destination.  There are other things that factor into where you choose to go such as availability of camping and your hiking ability since hiking the National Park is more difficult than hiking to Havasu Falls.

One factor that has been a decision maker for many people I speak to about coming to the Grand Canyon it that this may be the only time in their life that they will get here and they want to say that they’ve hiked to the bottom and back. In the end, these people chose a backpacking trip to the bottom of  Grand Canyon National Park.

A Grand Canyon Thunderstorm

Thursday, July 30th, 2009

July and August are notorious for thunderstorms in Arizona. We have a Monsoon weather pattern that brings moisture up from the Sea of Cortez and dumps it all over the state. It makes for interesting hiking all over the state including the Grand Canyon.

I just got out of the canyon on Sunday and I want to share some photos of a storm we saw on Friday afternoon. We were hanging at Plateau Point,which is deep in the canyon over three thousand feet below the rim, when we saw a thunderstorm brewing about 5 miles to the east.

So here we are , the tallest objects in the area so of course we were checking to make sure that we weren’t going to end up as lightning rods. But that’s the beauty of the canyon, it is so large that you can watch a storm in one part of the canyon while you remain dry.  While we were watching mother nature’s light show, I snapped a few shots of the storm.

Grand Canyon Thunderstorm

This first shot shows rain coming in over the South Rim and into Pipe Creek Canyon. The lightning was much further to the east so we decided to stay put unless the lightning was moving closer. We were actually hoping to get rained on; it was 100 degrees at Indian Gardens and we wanted to get cooled off.

Grand Canyon Summer Storm

The rain is moving closer to us at this point and is about a mile and a half away and the nasty stuff was still so far away that we decided to stay put and enjoy the shower.

Rain over the Grand Canyon

We got hit with a light shower while the bulk of the rain was still moving over Cremation Canyon. It was just enough to cool us down without soaking us. You couldn’t ask for anything better.

After the shower passed, we stared back  up at the South Rim and watched people near the lodges take flash photos. I even snapped some flash photos back at the rim to play around with those people. I wonder what they said when they saw my camera flashing away?

The Most Destructive Animal in Yosemite

Tuesday, July 28th, 2009

We just got back from a backpacking trip in Yosemite National Park last week and even though we followed the rules to the letter, we still had an animal sneak into our food box overnight. It wasn’t a bear like you would think but it was two tiny field mice that are as fast as Speedy Gonzales.

If you haven’t been to Yosemite, everywhere in the park (even the toilets) there are warnings about bears and how they will even break into your car if you leave food in it overnight. To prevent bear encounters and auto break- ins, the Park Service places these heavy duty metal bear-proof  lockers around the overnight parking lots and in some backcountry campgrounds for campers to store their food.  These lockers are great for keeping out bears but they aren’t mouse proof.

One of the Culprits

One of the Culprits

Picture this scene. It’s after dark and we are packing up our food; toothpaste and other yummy things that bears eat, when not one, but two, field mice sneak into the food locker and hide. So we lock up the bin for the night with two mice locked inside like kids in a candy store.

Sure enough, the next morning we opened the bin to find that these two cute and innocent looking creatures have eaten an apple, some cherries, chewed into our garbage bag and chewed up some napkins and a camp towel to make a bed for the night.

We saw bears on this trip. We actually encountered a bear cub while Mama and Papa bear stared at us but they didn’t do a thing. Meanwhile the smallest and cutest of creatures in the forest caused us the most grief this trip.

Lesson learned: check the food locker for mice before locking it for the night.

Destination: Grand Canyon – Backpacking to Grapevine Canyon

Friday, July 24th, 2009

Continuation of Len Hardy’s backpacking trek through the Grand Canyon…

This is where we left off:

We started our hike from Grandview Point and set up camp at Horseshoe Mesa, a dry camp. After a couple of false starts we located and explored Cave in the Domes. After a nice dinner of Chicken Burritos and Black Beans, we had a few Sierra Coolers for a nightcap and fell dead asleep in the tents. It was a windy night on the mesa, at times it felt like the small 2-person backpacking tents would be lifted off the mesa and fly into the canyon just several yards to our rear.

We woke up reasonably early, had a few power bars for breakfast and packed up. Our destination tonight was Grapevine Canyon. Not all that far, about 8 miles if I recall, but although we’ve studied the topos we’re unsure of the terrain and not confident that we’ll make good time.

Packing up at Horseshoe Mesa

We strap on the backpacks and head off to Grapevine. We have to backtrack south just a little bit in order to head west to Cottonwood Canyon and eventually the Tonto Trail. As we exit Horseshoe Mesa we pass by an old garbage dump containing tin cans from the old miner days.

Old miner garbage dump at Horseshoe Mesa

We round a few turns and begin to descend into Cottonwood Canyon. We need to tank up on water and know that there is a spring located on the map just west of the trail. We drop our packs and head up the hill to the vegetation looking for water. After climbing up and down the hill and searching for 15 minutes or so, we give up and head on. As luck would have it, another ½ hour down the trail brings us to bubbling and flowing Cottonwood Creek. Should have looked closer at the map! We tank up here with plenty of water as we’re not sure if there will be any at Grapevine.

At Cottonwood, we meet another party filling their water bottles, this would be only one of two other parties that we meet on the trail until we get near Phantom Ranch.

Tanking up and taking a break at Cottonwood Creek

Fully loaded with water we head off towards Grapevine. One of the things that you realize when you hike in the Canyon that you don’t get from the rim is the amount of side canyons that you have to navigate on the internal trails. Sometimes the trail skirts around the canyons on narrow trails bordered by cliffs on one side and sheer dropoffs on the other.

Skirting a side canyon on the way to Grapevine

Other times the trail heads straight down the canyon and back up the other side. Typically the trail is rocky and rugged in these sections and you have to pick your way down, strategically placing your hiking poles in between or directly on the rocks and boulders.

Descending a side canyon through the rocks on the way to Grapevine

As you might expect there are a number of different kinds of cactus in the canyon, most of them just waiting to get tangled in your socks or to poke holes in your shins. This type of cactus is prevalent and has 3 inch spikes that are usually strategically placed right along side the trail, poised to leap out and spear you.

 Cactus in the canyon

A mile or two later we get our first view, of many, of the Colorado River.

First view of the Colorado River

Shortly after 3 we arrive at the camping area of Grapevine Canyon. We scope out the area, find spaces for our tents and begin to set up camp.

Camp at Grapevine Canyon

We had heard about the ravens in the canyon and not really experienced a problem. Yet. As I mentioned earlier, we packed all of our food in 2 gallon plastic jugs, as we were unpacking the food for dinner, we forgot to repack a bag of bagels. Big mistake, not a minute later there were 2 ravens ripping apart the bagel bag.

Thieving ravens

It was very windy again tonight. Previous backpackers had setup a stone shield in order to keep the camp stoves from blowing out.

cooking area at Grapevine with stone wind block

I cooked dinner, massive plates of pesto pasta with sun-dried tomatoes and pepperoni. Everyone ate carbs until they were stuffed (gotta fuel up for tomorrow’s hike!). It had gotten cold and everyone put on their hats, gloves, and rain jackets to stay warm.

Dinner at Grapevine Canyon

The rest of the evening was spent hanging out looking at the topo for tomorrow’s hike and BSing about previous and future trips. We also went for a night hike in the moonlight with headlamps skirting the edge of a deep canyon and considering the suffering that would occur with one missed step.

Hanging out at the campsite in Grapevine Canyon

Night hike at Grapevine

A few Sierra Coolers and an early night to bed wrap up a great second day in the canyon.

Tomorrow’s hike will take us to Boulder Canyon, followed by Cremation Canyon (a dry camp) and then 2 days at the oasis that is Phantom Ranch. Boulder and Cremation is next up.

This is Part 3 of Len’s story about his Grand Canyon backpacking trip, complete with awesome photos. Check back next installment of our Guest Blogger’s trip.

 

Send Me
Dirt-e-mail

Keep the adventure going!
Sign up to receive bi-monthly e-mail updates on the latest happenings, newly added tours, outdoors tips and more.
 

Tell Someone to
Go Take a Hike

Good things are meant to be shared!
Tell a friend or family member about the adventures that await you.
 

Photo Gallery

Much better than Aunt Selma and Aunt Patty's vacation slide shows, but not as good as being there. Click here...
 
Bookmark: