Posts Tagged ‘Bright Angel Trail’

Are the Grand Canyon Mules an Endangered Specie?

Thursday, October 22nd, 2009

pb040339-vi According to a recent article in the Arizona Republic (Sept. 27, 2009), mule trips into Grand Canyon National Park could be endangered.  The reason for this is the damage the mules cause to the trail and the cost involved in maintaining these trails.  A ride on a mule to Phantom Ranch (the bottom of the canyon) costs around $450 and this price includes one night stay at Phantom Ranch and food.  A day trip to Plateau Point costs $150.   Xanterra South Rim, the private company that runs the South Rim concession, earned $2.8 million in revenue in 2007; however, by contract, they are only required to give 3.8 person of their gross to the National Park Service.  This amounted to $100,000.  This is far cry from the $2 million the park spent on trail maintenance that year alone.  An amount that is likely to increase annually. 

While the mules are not entirely responsible for the damage to the trails, it does not take a keen eye to see what the mules do to the trails.  The South Kaibab trail is currently closed to all mule traffic (except National Park Service mules) for trail rehabilitation, leaving the Bright Angel trail the only trail available for mule traffic.  After the South Kaibab trail is complete, the Bright Angel trail will go under the same reconstruction.  Take a hike on South Kaibab trail (or any other trail in the canyon that does not allow mules, which is almost all of them) and then go on Bright Angel trail and it is very obvious where the damage comes from.  Hikers pack the dirt on the trails, assisting against erosion.  Mules dig up the trails with every step, making them dusty and susceptible for washing out during heavy rains.

The park is not suggesting the mules should be banned, as they are necessary.  However, the number of trips going in will most likely be limited.  Many opponents to this suggestion argue that the mules are part of canyon history and tradition.  This is true, but as history has shown world-wide, it does not always correspond with conservation or what is best for the environment.  It it did, we would still be burning coal and cutting down our forests.  History is meant to be learned from, not continued when that continuance is detrimental to people or place.  I remember getting to walk inside ancient Indian ruins such as Montezuma’s Castle in Central Arizona.  Then someone realized that continuing this activity would eliminate the ruin’s existence for the future to enjoy.

The mules are cute and mild mannered, but that does not mean there hasn’t been some mishaps, remember that all animals are unpredictable.  I was involved in one with a run away train that almost walked off the edge and in the process were inches away from being smashed into the walls of the inner gorge.  We all escaped unharmed but I can say we were a bit rattled and I have now seen a jack’s ass up close and personal.  Another incident is depicted in the above picture.  One of my guests was waiting for the mule train to pass when the last mule decided that was the spot of a pee break.  Not life threatening, just a little overspray.  Actually, it was funny.  I would miss these moments of comic relief quite honestly.

While I don’t think Grand Canyon should ban the mules all together, there should be limits imposed, or at least make Xanterra pay a much bigger portion of the cost for maintenance.  Yes, that is a big portion of what they make off mule rides, but call it the cost of doing business.

Grand Canyon Rim To River To Rim Day Hike

Friday, December 5th, 2008

I found an entry today on Stephen Taylor’sendurance training blog that documents a Rim to River to Rim hike he and his girl friend, now fiance, Susan completed on November 25th only 2 days after running the Ironman Arizona Triathlon. It reminded me of a topic I’ve always wanted to write about which is discussing the difficulty of attempting this hike. Thanks to the Internet, there are more and more trip photos and trip logs from folks who have hiked from Rim to River to Rim in one day which is generating more interest in this trip.

Many people attempt the trip each year in spite of the warnings that the National Park Service have posted about the dangers. I’ve mentioned in a prior blog entry that this very hike was considered by Backpacker magazine as one of the most dangerous in America. Well it is dangerous and even deadly for for the unprepared and ill informed. Over 250 people are rescued each year from the canyon and many more hobble out sick and dehydrated after attempting this hike. 

Stephen and Susan starting their hike at 5am

The Rim to River to Rim route that Stephen and Susan hiked is an out and back along the Bright Angel Trail from the South Rim to the Colorado River where Pipe Creek meets the river and back to the Rim. They hiked about 15 miles (24 KM)  with a 4,460 ft  (1,360 meter) drop in elevation from top to bottom. The trail is wide and in great shape for hiking and there is always water at Indian Garden, 4.5 miles from the top. There is also water running at the 1.5 and 3 mile Resthouses from April through October.  Bathrooms are found at the 1.5 mile Resthouse, Indian Garden and there is new pit toilet installed at the turnaround point on the Colorado River.

This may sound simple on the surface but the tricky part of any Grand Canyon hike is that the hard part of the trip comes at the end which is the opposite of what you experience hiking up a mountain. With hiking up a mountain the difficult part is the first half where we are huffing and puffing up to the top. In the Grand Canyon, the first half is all downhill and you have to spend the last half of the hike huffing and puffing.  The rule of thumb is to allow yourself twice as much time heading out as you need going down.

How do you put the odds in your favor when tackling this task?  The best advice is not to attempt this hike as your first Grand Canyon hike. Stephen mentions on his blog that he had completed a Rim to Rim to Rim trip in October of 2007 so this was a much shorter trip for him this time around. Besides that , here is what else you need to consider before attempting a Rim to River to Rim Grand Canyon hike:

  • Training: Remember Stephen and Susan are highly trained endurance athletes so they can make it look easy. This is not easy! Prepare for this hike as if you are preparing for a marathon. Count on being on your feet all day. Hike anywhere you have a significant elevation change and you may have to hike up and down the same hill multiple times to get a feel for the elevation change of the trail. Spend up to an hour at a time on the stair mill at the gym as well. Don’t forget to work your core muscles as well
  • Packing: Pack for the event that this will take longer than expected. Bring an extra layer of clothing, extra food, emergency poncho, headlamp, and other emergency supplies. I know this sounds weird but you will see videos and pictures of people doing this online that hike this with just a water bottle and snacks. What you don’t see is some of these people getting stuck on the trail at night with a ranger coming to assist them.
  • Timing: Do not attempt this hike in the summer!!Temperatures reach over 100 F at the bottom from May to September. The best time to do this is in October because of the temperatures because water is still running at the top two resthouses on the trail. If you can carry enough water, early November is even better since the temperatures are much cooler.
  • Attitude: Be mentally prepared to turn around prior to reaching the river.  Know your abilities and don’t let your ego get in the way of your safety. There is a saying in the canyon and I’ll paraphrase; “getting down is optional, getting out is mandatory”.

Obviously this hike can be done. I’ve done this many times myself. The point I’m trying to get across in this post is that this hike is not as easy as it looks on the Internet and it is not for everyone. Personally, I prefer to take it slower and enjoy the scenery.

America’s Most Dangerous Hike: Bright Angel Trail?

Monday, September 15th, 2008

Backpacker Magazine’s October 2008 (The Survival Issue) has this pullout poster of “America’s 10 Most Dangerous Hikes” and to my surprise the Bright Angel Trail in the Grand Canyon was ranked #2 on the list. I think the ranking is a little over the top since the magazine is basing the ranking on hiking the trail from the South Rim to the river and back in a day so allow me to take a minute to compare that hike to the average day on the Bright Angel Trail.

A group of hikers on the Bright Angel Trail, Grand Canyon National Park

Hiking the Bright Angel Trail

The Bright Angel Trail is actually the easiest trail to hike for visitors that want to descend below the rim as part of their visit.  There are rest stops at regular intervals that provide shade, bathrooms and even water during peak seasons. The average hiker will venture to one of 3 turn around points along the trail, The Mile-and-a-half Resthouse, The Three Mile Resthouse, andIndian Gardens (listed in order from closest to the rim to furthest). Most folks I see on the trail turn around somewhere before the first resthouse just due to the steepness of the trail which drops over 1,000 vertical feet in the first mile and a half. If a day hiker were to go to Indian Gardens, it would be a strenuous hike of 9.2 miles with a 3,000 foot change in elevation on the hike out of the canyon. Even this is mild compared to the hike that Backpacker listed as the 2nd Most Dangerous on it’s list.

The Rim to River to Rim hike is essentially hiking from the Bright Angel Trailhead to the Colorado River and back to the trail head in a single day. The total distance hiked is 16.2 miles with an almost 4,400 ft change in elevation. When you add to this the 100 F plus temperatures near the river from May to September, then you are asking for trouble.  I agree with Backpacker that this is a dangerous hike and one that can kill even experienced hikers. Even during months with cooler temperatures, the Rim to River to Rim hike will test experienced hikers.  Remember that getting to the river is optional but getting out is mandatory and the Park Service won’t send a helicopter to fly you out either.

The bottom line, hiking the Bright Angel Rim to River to Rim in a day may be the 2nd Most Dangerous Hike in America but the Bright Angel Trail itself is not one of the most dangerous trails. Just remember to hike within your limits and do your research before taking off down the trail.

 

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